Before arriving to Namibia, I had been obsessed with Gregory Colberts “Ashes and Snow” for a while, and was very excited about finally getting to see those red sand dunes in the Namib desert. The main difficulty in Namibia is, however, the dependency of a car. If you don’t have one ot don’t have unlimited amounts of money to spend on renting one, you’re basically stuck in Windhoek. I put a note on the notice board in the hostel saying that I’m looking for a travel buddy and that my aim is to get around to see “cats & sand”. I only had four days to spend, and was slowly realizing that renting a car was far more expensive than what my budget could possible handle. I met Nate in the hostel, he was in the same situation and we both sat around thinking about a solution. Windhoek was a nice city and we went with some people from the hostel to eat at Joe’s beerhouse where we got to taste zebra, oryx, ostrich and Springbook meat. It was different, but tasty. And on the way back we were 8 people in the taxi, T.I.A style.

I was emailing with a friend from Copenhagen who had hooked me up with some contacts in the places I was going on my easter trip, and one of his Zimbabwean friends was based in Windhoek. We emailed about meeting up and I mentioned that I probably would need to rent a car. Baldwin didn’t hesitate a second before offering his car, just like that! I asked whether he had ever visited the Namib desert. He hadn’t. So I convinced him to join us. The more, the merrier!

Nate and I checked out and stood waiting outside the hostel as a black and sparkling Mercedes C220 pulled up. “Wait, is that the car?” Baldwin stepped out and greeted us, this was going to be random and fun. We laughed. We didn’t have any plan other than getting to the desert and camping there, so Baldwin had arranged tents and sleeping bags and all the equipment we would need – he was the best organiser ever! We went to shop for random food that we could eat for dinner and breakfeast, basically cookies, bread and fruits, and then we drove off. It didn’t take long before I was allowed to take over the driving and I was so happy! The guys were having beers and I was stepping on the gaspedal, going through dirt roads and amazing landscapes in a car that would respond properly to anything I asked it for, it was the perfect set up!

We arrived to Soussusvlei quite late and found out that we would have to camp in the people-packed camping area outside of the park which wasn’t really what we had hoped for when dreaming about tranquile sand dunes and starlit skies. We decided to try an alternative way, the acting stupid one, and got in to the park just before it closed. We found a sand dune that we liked and parked the car. Right there, we saw the sunset, waited until the stars came out, set up our enormous tent and had dinner. The guys were scared of snakes and scorpions and didn’t want to get out of the tent, but I refused missing out on sleeping under the full moon, so I took my sleeping bag out and spent the night there, alone, with a jackal howling in the distance.

Baldwin woke us up before six and we went to do what people usually do in the Namib desert, we climbed the dramatically red dunes, hung out in the beautiful dried out lake, and took many photos. Luckily, we got to the places before the tourist masses and could leave before the sun got too intense.

On our way out from the park we were asked why we hadn’t gotten out before closing and made up the best excuse in the world. It worked, and the drive home was even more fun as we had a great adventure to laugh about, and great music to sing along to. My hair was full of sand – and I got to drive all the way home.

Once again, I will mention how amazing it is to live in Maputo, with the most beautiful places just a short drive away. Yesterday, Manuel got the brilliant idea to cross the border and take a daytrip to Blyde River Canyon in South Africa which is the world’s third biggest canyon. We got there just as the sun was setting and the gates had closed, but we asked nicely – and got in to see amazing light over a breathtaking view on our own. I love the flexibility of this place.

I drove us back home and everything was pitch black, but the roads in South Africa are a dream to drive on and going through all the curves in the mountains with the girls sleeping in the backseat was simply enchanting. It was me and my iPod against the world – singing to Vetusta Morla and swaying to electronic music. The drive would easily have made it to be my favourite part of the day had it not been for the overwhelming view of the canyon. Go there if you live anywhere close by. Or come visit me and we’ll go together.

As I’m on it today – I might as well show you the last photos from my travels through Botswana. I wrote about my trip between Maun and Namibia before, but these are the real colours from this long and interesting day.

I spent some time waiting on the border between Zimbabwe and Botswana, as the company I was doing the Chobe-tour was supposed to pick me up there. They didn’t. When I realized they must have forgotten about me, I hitched a ride instead – and met Moses. Moses is a tour guide for a different company that does Chobe park tours, and was just about to drive to Kasane, which is the town just next to the Bots-Zim border. We spoke about my plans in Kasane and he asked me where I had booked my lodging. which I of course hadn’t yet.

So I got:

“Well, this will sound very strange and I don’t know why I’m saying it – but you’re pretty cool – so if you want to, you can feel free to stay at my family’s place. I’ve never done this before but I can ask my mother and see if she thinks it’s okay.”

Moses dropped me off by the Kalahari tours office and as you saw, I got in time to join their tour anyway. While I was on the boat cruise, Moses texted me that his nephews were eager to meet me. He picked me up after the tour and we drove to his home.

The house was a bit outside of Kasane and Moses lives there with his mother, his sister, and his nephews. I got to meet them all except from the sister who was out travelling, I was to sleep in her room. I also got to see Moses’ room that he had decorated by painting different characters on the walls. The walls in the living room were decorated with magazine clippings. There was a room for the kitchen where are the kitchen utilities were stored but Moses said: “We Africans like to cook over fire, so we cook outside” while pointing at a fireplace next to the house. The kids had a playstation, but only one controller.

Moses went off to have a shower and I spent some time talking to 20 year old Kachere who was too shy to look me in the eyes – instead he kept looking into the tv while talking, with a huge smile on his face. “What’s the matter?” I asked.

“Nothing, sorry! It’s just that this is so strange. You are the first white person to visit our home. And the first white person I have ever spoken to. I’m so happy. This is great.”

We laughed about it. And then we spoke about Zlatan, Islam, kannibalism and Bill Gates. I took some photos. And while I went to take a shower, Kachere wrote a message in my Moleskine:

Moses came back with his nephews who had been too afraid to come in to the livingroom. It was weird for them that I was there and they giggled away while answering my questions. The brothers, 17 and 9 years old, were clearly very attached to each other which was very nice to see despite the big age difference. They were both shy, but what I really noticed was that the younger Panashe was a very bright kid. Moses confirmed that the boy with the name that in Subia language means “where god is” was exceptionally good in school so it wasn’t only me being biased by his crystal clear English. Great!

Later, the mother came home. I jumped up to greet her and we instantly connected in the way only ladies can. We hugged, laughed, giggled, hugged again and laughed even more. Moses translated which was great – but it was not necessary. I expressed my gratitude for her letting me stay there, she was happy I was visiting and wished me all the best. We hugged again, and laughed even more. It was amazing.

Me and Moses had a talk about his childhood, family and future. I felt extremely privileged to get those quite heavy insights into his life, and thankful for his trust and honesty. We spoke about electricity, as I noticed that all the lights and electronics in the entire house were on from the moment it became dark. Moses told me that that was the custom, and that the electricity company usually walks around the townships, exchanging normal light-bulbs to energy saving ones. Electricity is very expensive. So I asked why they didn’t save electricity by turning the lights and TV off when they left a room. There was no real answer to that. They just simply don’t. Not even when going to sleep.

In the evening we went for dinner at Moses’ best friends place that was just a short walk away. The food he had cooked was great and we spoke about humanitarian aid, politics and Top Gear. It was already late as we walked back home, and some dogs followed us all the way.

In the morning Moses gave me a copy of The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency with a nice dedication, and at 5am I was on a bus again. On a bumpy & slightly chaotic ride to Namibia. Very thankful to Moses, thankful to his family, and with a refilled karma-account that I now will have to spend on a stranger.

I love friendly and helpful people, and I’m sure the world would be a prettier place if more people were like Moses and his family – assuming that they would also turn off their lights before going to sleep, of course. ;) Good night!

I didn’t spend much time in Zimbabwe, unfortunately, as I only got a visa for four days – but still – it would have been difficult to continue my travels had I extended my stay – so it turned out to be the only option.

I arrived to Harare in the afternoon, after a long, comfortable and rather interesting busride with top-quality views. I then spent the day walking around the city, without taking any photos. I got a great impression of Harare, not least because of the very friendly people I met there that were very helful and friendly. Beside that, it was clean, very safe and felt considerably ordered. I spent the first night in Zimbabwe at a friends place, or actually, a friend I have known for some time through twitter – have I reminded you about how awesome social media is?

One of the first funny randoms I noticed on my trip was when I was told to “turn right after the robots!” I understood that the person must be referring to the traffic lights so I giggled, said thank you and walked on. When the second person started talking about robots, I realized that this simply was the way to call them, and continued my trip doing the same – always giggling on the inside, imagining robots standing on the road.

I realized I missed out on some good shots just of the simple reason that I kept the camera in the backpack. Made sure to take it out just when I left Harare – and it never got back in there again.

The next day I went to Victoria Falls through Bulawayo – another busride that I wrote about at that point. Victoria Falls welcomed me by a young girl named Megan, and her mother, driving me to Shoestrings Backpackers out of mere kindness. The moment I checked in at the hostel, I met a new friend with whom I spent the rest of the evening – chatting away about banalities and non-banalities, minds flowing. I smiled at his princess Diana accent, effortless eloquence and noted his voice as particularly beautiful before even realizing he could sing.

On my second day in Vic Falls, I took a walk and met the tourist police who were the kindest officers I have encountered so far here in Africa. (Oh, the horrors of Mozambican traffic police!) I walked around with miss Magarita for a while, looked at the river, visited the crafts market, survived a heavy rainfall and later went back to Shoestrings where I met Tinashe again.

We went with lady Leanne to the place where Tinashe, or just Nash, usually rehearses with his band. Leanne is their manager, together with Eddy – and they are seven members in the Chikenbus band who play various instruments and sing. I got the opportunity to hang along with Chikenbus to a fundraising event for the Victoria Falls Anti Poaching Unit and as we drove out into the bush, we encountered a big fire and a red carpet in the middle of nowhere, next to the railway. We set up the sound equipment and the Chikenbus started sound checking.

A part of the fundraising event for VAPU was the steam train ride, on which the people arrived. The band played tunes which made it impossible for me to put the band in a box by category or genre – there was some reggae, there was some rock, there were some classic Zimbabwean beats – and then they played “in the jungle” and everybody danced. They were setting the perfect mood and I was completely enchanted about the Chikenbus’ own lyrics and tunes, that got stuck in my mind for many days to come.

After the show we got to board the train as well, where drinks were bought with coupons and where one of the carts was specially equipped for dancing. Party train became a reality, and we danced our way back to the beautiful and happy town of Victoria Falls.

The next morning, after a long night of talks, stars and theories, I met Arnold. He is a Zimbabwean who lives in Cape Town and was passing by Vic Falls as a part of his work, we had a good breakfast talk and decided to go visit the Victoria Falls together.

The waterfalls were amazing. We got raincoats but decided not to wear them and instead let the spraying water rain down on us. There is something about water that affects me tons, the energy it contains makes me skip around like a kid and become so happy I feel like bursting of joy. I put my camera in a plastic ziplock bag and we continued taking pictures, people laughed at us because we were so “wild” not wearing raincoats – living on the edge, I tell you! haha. We crossed the bridge to the Zambian border, people were bungy jumping, we were approached by aggressive baboons who stole our apples and to sum up – we walked for very long and it was a great day.

I met Tinashe for the last time and we shared some more hours of talking and simple, unforced friendship. People like this are the kind of individuals I search for when moving around the world, where conversation flows, when minds work well together, and when you know that this is a friend you always somehow will stay in touch with. I recorded him singing one of the Chikenbus songs and Nash dropped me off at where I hitched my ride to cross the border to Botswana.

Vic Falls and Zimbabwe made a huge impression on me. Maybe to most part because of the really great people I met and spoke to but also because of the landscapes and the positive energy. There was something about Zim that I will keep with me always – until I return.

Found this in Shewula, so pretty.

Good night.

Already on our first day, we spoke about there being something mysteriously beautiful about the little kingdom of Swaziland, both it in the smiles of the people and in the breathtaking landscapes. On the second day, when we got to see the animals, there was no doubt about it – Swaziland is a magical place.

We arrived to Swaziland early in the morning and drove straight to Shewula mountain camp which is a community camp located on the top of a mountain, overlooking a valley. We got our huts and sat for a while on the rock before we had lunch and got a tour around the area.

We walked through never ending fields and I kept wondering whether the guide had any idea where he was going. We followed the rhythmic sound of drums until we ended up in a place with six huts and some sort of celebration where every single person except the youngest was as drunk as drunk can get. The people were dancing, falling over each other and laughing. Ladies were jumping around with infants on their backs, little heads wobbling back and forth and toothless men were singing out loud with big cups of homemade beer in their hands. Somebody had some sort of a seizure that looked almost like epilepsy but wasn’t. It was strange. The people were happy to see us and they wanted us to dance, take photos and drink with them. I was entertained by the many smiles but concerned and saddened by the confused children with clear signs of malnutrition and vitamin A deficiency.

As we walked back to the camp I couldn’t stop thinking about how working in the field of development doesn’t allow one to naively enjoy these kinds of “attractions” the way I maybe could before, and how much working for the WFP changed me and my understanding of the importance of proper nutrition. Instead of meeting with a group of drunk and funny people that I could have filmed and uploaded to Youtube to laugh about, I had just had an encounter with living examples of many of Swaziland’s very serious social problems. I was thankful for being able to experience these moments in a different way now than I could before, with a wider understanding of what I am witnessing and of the effects and implications of my acting.

Swaziland sparked a lot of food for thought, I was contemplating the ways in which my travelling had changed the recent years and I spent time writing in my journal while sitting on the edge of the mountain. Around that time, the sun started setting, and except from some buzzing, we all enjoyed the silence, the fresh air and one of the most beautiful and crisp sunsets I have seen.

With the evening came our Swazi dinner. And the ladies who work at the camp had prepared something out of this world. It was as tasty as it was colourful and fresh, the chicken in some sort of peanut butter sauce had just been killed, and there were sausages, something green, something orange, potatoes.. and ah.. I just couldn’t stop eating even when I was completely full. It was without any doubt the best meal I have had in many months.

And as if the day couldn’t have gotten any more special, the black sky started lighting up just when we had finished eating. It was thunder, in the distance, silent and just the way I love it. We took our torches and went out to the rock again, watching and smelling the violent storm as it was approaching. The thunderbolts were striking down all around us and when it came really close we decided that we didn’t want to stand exposed out there, so we hid in a hut together with the ladies that had cooked for us. They were very afraid and they had put the lights out and the gas stoves off, tea was not an option and it was absolutely forbidden to touch milk while the storm was close – because it’s from the cow! I still don’t get that part.

The storm continued for a while and some of us went outside to stand under a small roof and watch it strike and the sky light up in a way that was completely unpredictable and random. The storm passed and we had that cup of tea we had been waiting for, then we ran through the mud and jumped into our huts.

Even sleeping was amazing in Shewula. The silence on the top of the mountain, the fresh air that was coming in through the grass roof and the morning light that woke us up. We started the day looking out over the valley again and I felt very rested and in harmony.

Some of us decided that we wanted to see more of Swaziland so we drove off in our car, playing local radio stations and bumping to African techno and other entertaining music. We were driving on beautiful roads with the Swazi landscapes all around us and people were waving their hands as we were passing, giving us the thumbs up, always smiling. Not sure about where to go we just picked the closest place we could find. We soon realized that we had chosen the best of the parks that Swaziland has to offer, just like that, because it was that kind of weekend.

We ate really tasty food at almost no cost at the Hlane National Park and took a stroll around the area while waiting for our guide. The first animals we met were a big group of rhinos and hippos that approached us and stood just two metres away behind a small electric fence that was separating the restaurant and camp from the rest of the park. I was enchanted. By the way the animals were interacting with each other, by the way there were curious about us and by their rough skin and little black eyes. One of the hippos showed me its tounge for staring too much! haha

It was just the three of us going for a guided tour in a huge jeep and with a guide named Maxwell, so we got to decide what we wanted to see first. The lions! we said, which Maxwell answered would be a difficult task. It proved not to be, because almost just as we had entered the closed lion section, we saw a lion sleeping in the grass. Maxwell drove up very close to it and it didn’t even bother to lift its head. We were watching it and Maxwell was whispering, telling us about the life of lions, about how they hunt and about how they can jump two metres to attack. Just as he said that, the lion suddenly stood up and looked very angry. Maxwell jumped down into his seat, trying to start the car, his whole face melting with fear. I saw the lion coming closer and hid my head between my knees as Maxwell got the jeep started and backed away. I looked up when we were a bit away and saw the lion again. It gave us a big yawn, showing off its fangs, and smiled. Then it roared five times. Two long and three short roars, and Maxwell explained that people used to say means: Who is the king?! Who is the king?! It’s me, it’s me, it’s me.

We drove on and watched a beautiful elephant drink endless amounts of water, a curious giraffe eating and chewing loudly just like a camel, a lot of pretty impala skipping around and some random birds. And a Pumba! Overall, it was clear that the park was the animal’s territory and not the other way around. They were deciding whether we could see them or not and how close we were allowed to approach them. It was a very powerful feeling to stand a bit away from an elephant, knowing that it was aware of your presence and that if you didn’t respect it, it had the power to kill you. Suddenly, just like that, we weren’t the masters of the situation or the top of the food chain and it was as scary as it was beautiful to be inferior to these animals. I asked Maxwell whether he had a weapon in the jeep in case something would happen, he did.

We got back into the car and I got to drive on our way back to Mozambique. Driving on the left side of the road for the first time in my life didn’t feel as weird as I had expected and I was very happy to finally do so. There was a lot to think about after these two days of thought provoking experiences and moments. Thinking about it now, I am convinced that I will be going back, to get more of those smiles, more of the Swazi air, more of the animals, and more of that magic.