.

There it comes again. The wave of uncertainty, the moment of reflection, the final summary, the good-bye’s and the closure.

Work has been finalized. Those who matter have been hugged. Now I only have this weekend left, fully booked with packing, dancing, a wedding and hopefully some sun and smiles.

And that’s it. Almost a year in this mesmerising country and I’m still just me.

Den mätta dagen, den är aldrig störst.
Den bästa dagen är en dag av törst.

Nog finns det mål och mening i vår färd –
men det är vägen, som är mödan värd.

Det bästa målet är en nattlång rast,
där elden tänds och brödet bryts i hast.

På ställen, där man sover blott en gång,
blir sömnen trygg och drömmen full av sång.

Bryt upp, bryt upp! Den nya dagen gryr.
Oändligt är vårt stora äventyr.


Karin Boye
I rörelse (1927)

Starfish – and some Inhaca details

This weekend I was reminded about the fact that I have paradise right around the corner. Beautiful Inhaca island that I visited last time in February is only a 3 hour boatride from here.

Nhelety departs from the same place as the Katembe ferry here in Maputo every day at 7am, and costs only 200mets one way, which is about 5€. It is a pleasant boatride despite being quite rough. I was sitting on the floor on the front deck, squeezed in between people -tourists and locals, trying to get some sleep, with the blazing sun shining on my face – absolutely adoring it. For double the price, namely 400mets, you can get a seat in the first class airconditioned room with nice benches. The boat to go back to Maputo departs daily from Inhaca at 15:00 in the afternoon, and starts filling up with people at around 14:20 – we were told that it actually gets full sometimes, so it’s good to get out there at about 14:30. Nhelety is usually on time.

Because of the shallow coast, small boats need to take you the last bit from Nhelety to the island for 20mets. Then there is a 200mets tourist tax that they sometimes make you pay on arrival. And a 200mets snorkeling fee at Santa Maria beach that they don’t really inform you about beforehand. That’s 10€ in total although many people just skip paying these fees.

For sleeping, there is the expensive Pestana Inhaca Lodge which is a luxury lodge with a beautiful pool, charging about 100€ per night. Then there are tons of guest houses, of which I still find Rita’s place and Cool Runnings run by the siblings Rogelio and Rita, to be the best places. Rogelio is always just a phone call away and can pick you up by the boat. It’s good to call him beforehand to get a better price and maybe even arrange food solutions with Rita and her son Angelo who owns the nicest restaurant at Inhaca, you can expect to pay between 700 and 1000 mets for a room, which is about 20€.

One very important detail about Inhaca is that you need to either go with a big group, or find people to team up with to make things as cheap as possible. The reason is that you need to pay a driver to take you to the beaches, and they charge about 2000mets for making the 30minute drive through the island bush. The cars take a maximum of 10 people, and then you can split the costs. Same goes for the boat to the Portuguese island.

Food is very expensive and there are only a few places to eat. Arranging beforehand with Rita is probably the cheapest way of surviving, otherwise, Angelo’s restaurant is the cheapest of those available – expect to wait for long to get your food – but then it’s great. This is also where the party is on in the evening.

You will need to bring cash as there are no atm’s on the island. Bring sunscreen. And please, don’t miss the boat to go back. Unless it’s on purpose.

Just contact me if you want Rogelio’s number. Oh, and my photos from February are much nicer – I need to start taking that camera out again.

I can’t believe I’m leaving this place..

Monday: Timbuktu, Damn! and a Brazilian MC

Brought my good friend Albertina with me to the Timbuktu concert on Saturday to show her what I consider one of the absolutely best Swedish bands out there. She liked the music enough to invite them to guest her music programme on Mozambican TV, despite not understanding a word of what they were singing about. “The beats were so great!”

So I set up the connection, and on Monday we went to the studio. It was random, improvised and great fun – the guys got to dance, answer questions, and freestyle some beats and songs on live TV. Suddenly one of them made the weirdest move when dancing, and the TV presenter picked it up, forcing everybody to do the move again and again, I was laughing so hard I couldn’t breathe. Now I am just waiting to spot “The Swedish dance” in a Maputo nightclub.

We took cabs to the fish market where we had prawns, fish, squid and drinks. Sea food seriously doesn’t get better than here and the guys were very happy. We ate, giggled, spoke a lot, and appreciated questionable art. And then we continued/went home/what?

I found myself in hotel Cardoso as one of the guys had “met this really cool Brazilian girl” the other night. I wasn’t sure what that meant or what my role was in the set up but I was already having a good time and decided to join when invited. “It’s great that you are here, maybe you can help us communicate!” We went up to a suite where Flora and her great friends welcomed us warmly. E took his computer and gear out, went “I’ve made a beat for you!” and they started listening, improvising, and making magic. Music that is – because Erik is a great musician who also makes beats, and apparently, Flora Matos is the biggest female MC in Brazil. And I wouldn’t doubt it for a second, the girl was extremely talented. E’s sounds, Floras beautiful Brazilian accent, looping over and over again – until we got two extremely catchy tunes, loads of content smiles, and a blurry group photo.

I’m voting for all my Mondays to be this random and fantastic.

Here are two small video insights.

Timbuktu & Damn! in Maputo

Timbuktu and his band Damn! made it from Sweden all the way to my beloved Maputo. They were playing in the FEIMA park right after a really happy and nice Stewart Sukuma concert, all organized by the Swedish Embassy.

People all ages danced and sang along, for me it was a wonderful feeling to get to sing in Swedish and hop around to songs I’ve known for years right after a very traditional Mozambican marrabenta show. It was all there, at the same place! The audience chanted “En gång till!” which is “one more time” in Swedish, and we made Timbuktu and the band jump, dance and sing for us until it was completely dark.

We moved on to an after party at the Scandinavian school where we had drinks and talks before taking the band with us to show them Maputo by night – concert, street party, local bar, clubbing – some even managed to hang in there until early morning, the way we do it here in Mozambique!

For those of you who don’t know any of the musicians, here are two old videos from Youtube to give you a sense of what they are like.

Monitoring the National Health Week

As you know, we went for a monitoring and observation visit to Marracuene district yesterday.

It was a great experience and I met some very interesting people as usually when visiting the field. We went around to different health posts in the district, making sure that the children were receiving the adequate dosage of vitamin A, polio vaccine and deworming tablets, checking the expiry dates on the vaccines, and seeing to that everything was in order. I took some time to walk around and speak to parents, health workers and children, which was very rewarding.

One case that struck me was that of a blind man that came to the health post with his two daughters, they had brought him there because they had heard (from the man with the megaphone, remember?) that it was important to get the vaccine. Every time I’m out I realize the importance of communication, of keeping the communities, community leaders, parents, teachers, traditional doctors etc. informed and involved. Letting them own the initiatives, activists feeling like they are contributing, young people understanding the importance and doing their best to get the younger one’s along. And this was happening, older children came with their younger siblings because their parents were out working in the fields, some of them out of their own initiative.

There was one thing that made me think though, and it was the omnipresent detail that the parents and health workers would say “open your mouth, it’s candy!” when giving the deworming tablets to the children. They are not sweet at all, but sure, it worked – this time.

Why not focus on educating and creating a positive picture of medicine as something that helps and cures, instead of infringing the trust of and directly disrespect your children?

Anyway, that was just a detail. But do you know what else I found? A small bear.

And of course, I wrote a story about it for the UNICEF website, here it is:

Marracuene, 27 November 2012 – On the second day of the National Health Week in Mozambique, women and children in the district of Marracuene in Maputo province gathered around health centers and mobile health posts. Led by the Ministry of Health, the campaign aims to improve the health of almost four million children by giving them polio vaccines, deworming tablets and vitamin A supplements. At the main health centers, family planning counseling is also available to all people of reproductive age.

“I am confident that we will reach our targets with the children here in Marracuene,” district director Isabel Menetiane proclaimed. “The numbers are already looking great. Yesterday we surpassed our goal of vaccinating four thousand children daily, and we know from experience that people here tend to come during the last days, so I am expecting a very good coverage”.

At the Marracuene health center, the preventive medicine technician, Rosalina Fumo, fills in the health cards and takes a moment to speak to each mother, giving advice and support. Sofia Cuco, 1 year and 10 months old, is hanging in the scale, it shows 9kg.

“Your girl has not gained any weight since September,” Rosalina tells the mother, 19 year old Zahora, while pointing at and explaining the graph in Sofia’s health card. “This is very bad and can be dangerous. At this age, your girl should be growing steadily. You need to change her diet and add some vegetable oil, milk, eggs or peanut butter to her porridge for her to grow healthy and strong”.

Zahora is thankful for the advice. “I am not happy that my girl has not gained weight, I want the best for her and will follow the advice of the health worker. But I am happy and feel more comfortable now when I know how to help her and knowing that she is vaccinated.”

A bit further away in the same district, a man wearing the white t-shirt and yellow cap for the campaign is standing by the mobile health post set up in a market named Guáva. He is holding a megaphone and shouts in Portuguese and the local language Shangana, urging people to bring their children to get their essential immunizations. Mothers and children are already standing in line facing the health workers, and more children are approaching. They have understood that somebody is giving out something good and some of them are looking curiously at the bright red pills containing the Vitamin A drops, they look almost like sweets.

Nationwide, the Ministry of Justice has joined the Health Week initiative, taking the opportunity to inform mothers about the importance of birth registrations. “It is very clever to use the fact that mothers gather in one place as an occasion to mobilize and advise them to register their children.” the chief medical doctor of Maputo province, Dr. Stélio Alfredo Dimande says.

Dr. Dimande is content with how the campaign is going. “This is a great initiative and we are really covering the entire district. The impact is much greater when we mobilize the communities and make sure that people actually participate. Unfortunately, people don’t come to the health centers for routine vaccinations and controls as often as they should, it would be a cheaper solution for the country – but it’s too difficult and expensive for some people to come, so we need to be the one’s reaching out to the communities.”

A visually impaired man approaches the health post with three children holding his hands, two girls and one boy. The girls are his 8 and 5-year-old daughters, Solange and Suza. As the immunization initiative is intended for children up to the age of 5, only one of them is standing in line.

“The girls came to me saying that they heard that there was something important going on in the market and that I had to take them there,” the father proudly explains. “I don’t see very much so they had to lead me here, but I am still here as their guardian to make sure that my Suza gets her protection and I will make sure that the boy’s parents also come here later with his health card. I am very happy that we found out about this campaign.”

“The health center is my home and family”

Photos and story from the visit to the Health Center in Changara, Tete province. Published on the UNICEF Mozambique website.
© UNICEF Mozambique/2012/C.Bach

Ladies dressed in colourful traditional capulana fabrics are standing in a long line outside of the main health center in the district of Changara in Tete province in Mozambique. They are accompanied by their children and are today attending the monthly health control where their babies will be weighed, measured and checked for diseases.

Little Debora Inácio is four months old and is being held by her grandmother. The mother stands next to them, explaining why they have come today. “We come here once a month to check that everything is okay with the girl. It is very hot sometimes and we have to wait for a long time, but we are very thankful that the health centre takes care of us and our children,” she says, showing Debora’s health card with charts showing whether the girl has the weight adequate to her age.

Almost 200.000 people live in Changara and this is the only Health Center where a licensed medical doctor and admission facilities can be found. Dr. Fausto Muzila is the young doctor that is taking care of the entire district and supervising nurses and other health professionals. He has some support in his work from medical technicians and 12 smaller health clinics, but not even this main health center has advanced enough facilities to take care of some of the most acute and severe cases.

“We do what we can here in Changara, but when somebody needs a surgery after a car accident or when a mother is delivering a baby and acutely needs a caesarian, we simply cannot help them,” Dr. Muzila explains.

Patients in need of urgent medical attention that require surgery or x-ray are sent to Tete, the capital of the province, 100km away from Changara. “It takes more than one hour to reach Tete so it happens that patients die in transport just because they don’t reach the hospital on time, this is very sad,” Dr. Muzila says.

A bit further away, a team of health workers are showing young mothers how to prepare nutritious food for their children from locally grown ingredients such as corn, peanuts and moringa leaves, a very vitamin-rich plant that also contains magnesium and proteins. The mothers are informed that they only need to feed their babies with breast milk during the first six months, as it contains all nutrients the babies need, contrary to the belief in some of the communities.

Carmita, a 19 year old mother, is watching the presentation with her four month old baby, little Beyonce. “This is my first baby and now I will be able to cook food that is good and healthy for her,” she smiles, letting the girl taste some of the mash that the health workers have prepared.

HIV and AIDS related symptoms and diseases, malaria and diarrhea are the main reasons people come to the health centre. Lately however, after a large distribution of mosquito nets in all the communities, the numbers of cases of malaria are less than half of what they used to be.

“The mosquito nets have made a huge difference in the communities,” Dr. Fausto explains. “Now I only work 24 hours a day,” he jokes, smiling and pointing out that he has dedicated his entire life to working at the health center. “I don’t have my own family, I wouldn’t have time. Besides, the patients, the work I am doing here, it is all very rewarding. The health center is my home and family”.