Jackalopes in Maputo
The Maputo fortress is alive! And for a couple of minutes, the two jackalopes danced in the rain.
The online space of Caroline Bach
The Maputo fortress is alive! And for a couple of minutes, the two jackalopes danced in the rain.
Usually loud and busy Avenida Mao Tse Tung where I live is very empty today. As is the rest of the city with closed restaurants, shops and very little public transport and people in movement.
The fares of the ‘chapas’, the minibuses that serve as public transport here in Maputo, were raised yesterday and people on their way to the city got angry and started violent uprests, burning cars, looting, and stone throwing, mostly in the outskirts of the city. Police cars were burning, people were injured and mobile networks and media channels were shut down. I was sent home from the office.
Today, we were instructed not to come in to office either but to my knowledge nothing serious is happening apart from some closed shops, an increased police presence, and a couple of roadblocks.
The price of a chapa ride has been kept artifically low and subsidized by the government at a rate of 5MZN, which is about 0,10€. Yesterday, years later, the price was increased to 7MZN and for many people coming from the outskirts this minimal increase hinders them from affording to commute to town. That’s how poor this country is.
In central Maputo, however, most people are probably just enjoying Maputo on hold and loving the fact that they are getting a longer weekend than expected.
By the way, did I mention that Leonie is back in town?
Today, on the way home after a late dinner, we were stopped by the police.
First, a man in a worn out white hoodie approached us and I thought that he was considering robbing us. Then his colleague, a man in a police uniform, came, which of course doesn’t necessarily mean that he is a police officer. That’s when I saw the gun and decided to give him my ID.
“You know we are all good friends here, we don’t want to put you young people through trouble by taking you to the police station. Let’s solve this here and now”
“But for what? No crime has been commited.”
“We can tell our story at the station and you can tell yours, it will take all night but as you say, it’s the right thing to do.” The gun, the darkness, the guy in the hoodie looking like a bandit and separating us to ask intimidating questions. The escalation of it all.
“I’m sorry, I’m not paying a bribe.”
2,5 hours, three police officers and ten mosquito bites later, the threats and made up stories escalated as they were being passed on from one officer to another. All of them asked for bribes throughout the process despite our refusal. Blackmailing and corruption as direct and open as it gets.
The amount of disgust I feel towards the corrupt officials here is not even to be described. If anybody ever asks me what the worst thing was about Mozambique, I will undoubtedly answer: The horribly corrupt police force and system.
Good night.
Just in case I haven’t made myself clear lately.. and because dinosaurs are kind of great.
picture from xkcd.com
Good night, all.
Status: Blah..
Need: Inspiration, Surprise, Excitement
Meet the marvellous voice, lyrics and guitar of Jamie Woon.
I couldn’t let you know I’d gone
You might have thought you’d done something wrong
Well I can tell you why I’ve been setting fire to the wires that untangle the worldSorry that I missed your calls
But all I wanna do is throw the phone at the wall
And how many times can you hear that sound
“Don’t leave a message I’m not around”You know me, I’m with you when I’m with you
Dancing to your rhythm
Understanding why I can’t tell you.
Jamie Woon – Missing Person
Mirrorwriting (2011)
Apparently it’s the acacia season now and the trees are flourishing. That’s wonderful, but judging from the current state of my nose, eyes and energy, it seems like I’m very much allergic to their pollen. I can’t breathe in the night and I wake up tired, swollen and red-eyed. I gues this is when I remind myself about those studies stating that allergy sufferers are less prone to cancer.
Many trees in natural reserves die because of the elephants hurting them when eating off their stems. Beautifully dramatic branches and dark, mysterious landscapes are the result.
We saw a herd of cows while driving through Swaziland. They were on a big field – eating grass, hanging out and just being cows. And then there was one cow, walking all by itself on the side of the road. Far away from it’s cow buddies, way too close to the cars. Walking away, towards nowhere. I wanted to give it a hug.
It’s been quite intense lately and I’ve literally had people around me 24/7. My friends left today at 5am and I’m now properly alone for the first time since two weeks. Blocking everything out with Jamie Woon and Submotion Orchestra. Realizing that I’m in limbo again. Somewhere in between going home and staying here, somewhere in between loving the freedom and longing for my own apartment, sound system and couch, somewhere in between really enjoying what Maputo has to offer and feeling limited by the little city. If it only weren’t so cold where I’m going.. why does the world’s most safe, comfortable, eco-friendly, healthy, design aware, clean, equal and inclusive place have to be covered in snow and sad faces half of the year?
Constantly in search of knowledge, levels of understanding and experiences while enjoying every second of the learning process, I end up wanting and expecting more from people I am sharing my thoughts with. I branch out, hopping between the simplest of banalities to the most weird of theories, hoping for people to join me on my journey. Maputo is wonderful in the simplest of ways, but I’m missing made up theories, word play, long discussions and having my mind provoked.
I wish I had joined my friends to the palm trees, sunsets and beaches of my beloved Tofo for some proper contemplation. I want to listen to this music while staring into the sun.
Submotion Orchestra – Snow
Fragments (2012)
Spent the weekend in Swaziland.
Always wonderful Shewula mountain camp. Hlane Royal National park. And those very random hot springs named cuddle puddle, or “Cuddly puddly” as the locals say it.
Nick slept a tiny bit more than the rest of the group. Including during the gamedrive with a herd of elephants bathing in front of us. Beat that, narcoleptics.
Such a crazy and great concert – loads of energy and jumping, pumping, shaking people! Wegue wegue wegue!
The Cicirella and the ginger from Mogadishu have arrived and are currently indulging in the best of Mozambique.