Glimpses of Pushkar

wpid-IMG_20130923_092019.jpgimage

imageimage

imageimage

imageimage

imageimage

imageimage

imageimage

One of the holiest of cities, Pushkar also shares the first place (with Varanasi) of my favourite places in India. Very small, very friendly, very personal, and not as loud – Pushkar is the place where I for the first time since coming to India felt that real euphoria again. It was when walking around town on the first day and a big group of people celebrating Ganeshas birthday walked by, women in colourful saris clapping, cheering and singing, that I felt that I was filled with love again. It didn’t last long – we kind of had to go – but it had been there and my eyes had teared up a little, if only for a moment.

To my mother’s delight, we stayed in an absolutely wonderful place in Pushkar, Seventh Heaven Inn, with fresh rose petals in the shower, service worthy a first class hotel and amazing attention to detail in every little piece of furniture, plant, candle and fabric.

Pushkar is very differeny from the rest of the classic India experience in the way that it almost completely lacks the pushing and ruthless bargaining that you come across everywhere else. You are welcome to look and touch, you will be shown other variations, but you can also freely walk out again if you wish – and you will be given a reasonable price to start the bargaining from. Comfortable, I bought little pieces of jewellery and had some things custom made for me, we walked around, had lime juice with mint, and I sent out some job applications now that the Internet connection was reliable.

Pushkar was like a break in all the running around. Less temples, castles and big impressive English buildings to pose in front of for a photo. More people who really wanted to have their photo taken just for the sake of it and not for money, than beautiful litte lake in the moddle of town, Ganeshas birthday celebration all over, and small spontaneous decisions. Less planning, more being.

Hello?

image

“Goodmorning, I just wanted to confirm that we are staying another night in Pushkar. Ok? No problem? Fantastic, thank you.”

My mother takes candid photos of me in the weirdest of situations. I was practically still asleep while making this phonecall. Hilarious.

Anyway, Seventh Heaven Inn in Pushkar is wonderful. “This is how I dreamed India would be!” my mother exclaimed when we entered the first time. So we stayed three nights, and tomorrow we’re going to Jodhpur. By taxi. Five hours for 25€.

All of this is definitely a different kind of exploring India for me, but travelling two weeks is indeed a direct contrast to travelling for two months – time is actually significant this time. And a little bit of comfort.

The Pink City

image

image

image

image

image

image

image

We were in Jaipur for a total of two days and saw more palaces and mesmerizing little mirror-rooms than I have ever seen before. My mom has a thing for sightseeing and cool buildings, so I’m tagging along.

And then we went to Amber Fort, of course – and did a retake of one of my favourite photos of me.

Best of India

imageimage

The food, the Taj. Apart from all the unpredictability and spirituality you find around here, these two are the best of India.

It’s my second time visiting this mesmerizing work of art and the Taj Mahal is still the most breathtaking and beautiful building I have ever seen.

Happy to be sharing this with Mami. She showed me the pyramids in Giza more than 15 years ago.

Hopping on a train soon. Just a short ride this time.

Varanasi – the most real place in the world

imageimage

imageimage

imageimage

imageimage

Yesterday, after arriving to Varanasi at 11am after a 15 hour trainride from Kolkata, we were taken around the city by an annoying guide who would rush us around and show us a side of the city that wasn’t the Varanasi I knew at all. I was angry and completely heartbroken. “Where is all the magic?” I asked myself and my friends who also know India. “Was I just naïve three years ago? I can’t see through all this commerce and staged shows.. where is the deep, spiritual, and proud Varanasi I once fell in love with?”

And so today, I convinced my mother that we shouldn’t have ANY plan at all. That we wouldn’t look for temples or attractions according to her guidebook or the words of anybody that we were paying, but only walk around and let things happen as the day goes by. Let this place be discovered as it wishes to.

So we did. And Varanasi slowly emerged from underneath the dust, cow feces, and chinese merchandise. And forth came the people, their little family owned shops, the cows that act like dogs, the private temples in every corner, the processions with deceased people carried by their chanting family members on their way to the cremation ceremony, all the colours, spirituality and kindness – and suddenly: “sister, sister – I was looking everywhere for you!” – my bhaia, my Indian brother, Rahul Pandit Cristoforo. The same person who three years ago showed me his Varanasi for three days, insisted that I was his sister, took me to places no tourists had access to, and refused any sort of payment. My very good friend.

With Cristo, Varanasi came to life again – with magical stories of the gods and all of their avatars, with private access to a silk and pashmina factory where we got to buy hand woven beauty at actual retail prices, real food, real shortcuts, and fantastic Indian chai that Cristo insisted on inviting us for. It was different, just like three years ago, to walk around with Cristo. Seeing his city through his eyes, meeting his friends and being introduced as his sister and new “mama”, the upgrade from tourist to “family”. It just wasn’t fake anymore.

Varanasi is still there, with a thicker layer of tourism, commerce and falsehood that takes a day or two extra to dig through – but I got back to the core of what makes this places different from any place in the world, to what makes this the core of everything – where life meets death, animal meets human, and bright colours on pure silk meet the worst kinds of dirt – and all of it is accepted with a respectful Indian side-nod. It doesn’t get more real than this, Varanasi is the definition of balance.

All has its natural place, balance requires patience and an open mind. My heart is back in India to be reminded about all of this and I am truly happy.

Mexico City – the bizarre, the crowded, the sad.

I spent a bit over a week in the capital of Mexico – an overwhelming place at the altitude of almost 2300m where traffic decides whether you will have time to do more than two things per day or not. I had the bad luck of being “sick” and having to run errands, so three mornings were cut out of my Mexico City schedule. However, as visiting a place isn’t about ticking the box of the tourist attractions for me, but rather trying to get a feeling of what the people and the athmosphere are all about – I think I got my proper dose of the big, crowded, anguish filled city and the chilangos.

Ady took me to the house of Frida Kahlo, which was beautiful and interesting but very sad at the same time. Just the fact that this amazing woman lived her entire life in sadness and pain – and then became an inspiration and muse for such a vast amount of people. It bothered me how her painful story is a huge reason to why she is so loved, I do get that it is her strenght, depth and endurance that inspires – but it’s still complete strangers giving the crying self-portraits of Frida Kahlo some kind of catharsis function, feeding on her pain.

As if Frida’s obsession with her own uterus and paintings of her body pierced with spikes wasn’t bizarre enough – I visited a market where puppies in small cages were crying out for love along with exotic monkeys, lizards and colourful parrots. Just next to this terror of animal abuse were stands with animal heads, statues of saints, herbs, voodoo dolls and “magic powders” to cast spells of love, hate and revenge. The market was sickening in many, many ways – but it needed to be seen and showed how there still is a big demand based on superstition and jealousy. One interesting spell was that of “Con nadie más podrás” which basically translates to, “You won’t be able to with anybody else” and is a powder one (always the woman) is supposed to put in a drink of the partner for him not being able to have sex with anybody else. Ever. Then of course there was the “closing mouth” spell that will stop people from talking about you, which I understand could be pretty useful in a soap opera society, the straight up “hate” powder, and then the “regresa a mi” powder for the lost lover to come back. How is that supposed to work, anyway? Is it during the “So, I thought we could have a last coffee together” that the obsessive woman is supposed to throw the powder into the drink? It was all awkward and pretty ridiculous, but mostly sad. There is a considerable amount of people who turn their hopes of revenge and hate to magic powders, instead of letting go of their latino drama and caring about the suffering of animals instead.

The city in itself, its buildings and architecture, was beautiful, and we went up the highest tower to have a look at it from above. Mexico City is a neverending carpet of houses squeezed together in a valley, hosting a bit over 21 million people. That’s entire Sweden times two. I was with Chema and two friends who also lived in the same apartment in Barcelona in 2011 when we all were there – it was such a nice reunion! During all of the time as we walked up the tower, sat there, and came down again, a big group of people were dancing non-stop in a traditional ceremony. I was watching, taking pictures and would have loved to stay for longer, but then we kind of had to rush home because it would take us more than an hour to get there. Gah! At least the food was wonderful and the company good fun, even though some actually call their own city Mexico Shitty, and I’m not very surprised – it can be a frustrating place.

The last photo is of Chema’s toys. Next time I’m close to them I’ll make sure to have enough time to play.

Cats, the Musical!

We went to see Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical Cats in Mexico City as Chema’s mother was doing the role of Agilorum. I have never seen Cats live before so I was very excited to go and enchanted by the colours, the voices, the cat-like dancing and the make-up. Seeing Chema’s mother sing and dance was extra fun as I had never before seen anybody I already know enter a personality on a stage like that. I wish I could share the videos with you right away but my internet connection is busy with other things. Next time!

Anyway – Olivia, Hector, Chema – Thank you for a great night!

Mexico City, where the cats and kittens are. Mjau!