On our second day in Stone Town, we took a stroll away from the touristy parts of town and headed to the Darajani market. A market where people go for food and where I guess much of the fish we had been eating so far came from. For a person trying to limit her meat consumption, it was like entering a vegan nightmare – a morgue-like pavilion packed with people and severed animal faces, a stark smell of blood and fish, and way too many flies to be considered sanitary. It felt rather claustrophobic, no matter how inviting the people were and how much Mr. Omar insisted on showing us the cow head he had in his stall – we got out of there pretty quickly. And on the way out he was there, the smiling man with the oranges. We were safe.