Month: July 2012

Caroline BachLeave a comment

Stolen essentials and baobab trees

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I have found the land of the magic trees. These amazing creations, scattered all over the Tete landscape, look as if they have entire little villages inside of their enormous stems. The baobab tree does not only bear a nutritious, vitamin rich and useful fruit – it’s also pretty damn beautiful.

So, I have been here for a day, and it has been a rather hectic one, of various reasons. Firstly imagine getting the greatly exciting assignment of being sent to the field to in a few days collect, photograph and report on various people’s experiences of implemented projects. Then, imagine arriving to your guesthouse and realizing that there are things missing from your luggage. And that one of these things is the charger for your camera – the same camera that you very much will need to charge. Let me at this moment remind you that you are far out in the middle of nowhere. And we’re talking so far out that the local bar only serves one kind of beer. Just forget finding a charger out here.

Anyway, two hundred phonecalls later, I had found a place that sells Canon chargers, a friend who could buy one for me, and a random acquaintance of a friend, who just happens to be on his way to the same province tomorrow! (aaand my friend just happens to be such an angel that I also will get to borrow an L lens.) So simply put: a new charger and an awesome lens are on their way to me with tomorrow’s flight, and somebody will bring them out here. Because one always knows somebody, who knows somebody, who knows somebody who.. right?

So, I’m currently staying in the only guesthouse there is in this district. There are only two types of rooms, one for 10€, the other for 30€. And the difference? A mirror, and a TV. I don’t watch TV.

So anyway, here I am. In the middle of nowhere. On a very exciting assignment with the UNICEF. And right now I’m mainly amazed by the good 3g connection while focusing on hiding well inside my mosquito net. I’m completely covered in repellent and a little bit paranoid. The last thing I need now is malaria.

My neighbour is blasting Beyonce from his mobile phone so I might as well give you a photo of my bathroom window. I chose the cheaper room, of course. It’s all about piorities, darling.

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Caroline Bach1 Comment

Just like in Scandinavia

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It’s 4.30am and I don’t want to move outside of the warm and safe little cocoon consisting of my bed and the cover. It’s freezing cold on the outside! You know the feeling, right? Haven’t felt like this in months. Gah..

This makes me think of when I was living in that very charming but also badly isolated house in Copenhagen, I was sometimes so cold I would put my beanie on before even leaving the bed.

And now my alarm goes off again on the phone I strategically placed in the other side of the room.. gotta catch that flight. Ciao!

Caroline BachLeave a comment

Núcleo de Arte

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Then there was Sunday. And a friend played Vinyl records. And there was dancing, happy people and good vibes. And the best thing about the party in Núcleo is that it starts early and lets you dance enough before it’s time to go home. Still reasonably fresh, happy and ready for a Monday morning at your new job.

Thank you for all your messages, comments and emails. It feels so nice to know that you notice and that you are here with me when I’m a bit down and confused. You just simply won’t allow me to feel lonely, will you?! Damn, I have so much love for you, my friends. Anyway, I’m back on track now, and maybe, just maybe, everything will turn out to be perfectly great. :)

Here’s also a photo of my current me, just because you’ve been such darlings Time to change to my pyjamas and go to sleep now. Beijinhos.

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Caroline Bach3 Comments

Drive-by, the musical.

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An interesting observation I made yesterday, is that this place and the past months actually have been full of defeat. Until now, I hadn’t quite realized that while Mozambique seems full of opportunities, it tends to promise things it doesn’t keep and build up false expectations that later dissolve into nothingness and dissapointment.

I mean, of course, I’ve done great things here. I’ve monitored elections, prisons and political changes. I’ve built up an interesting network and despite not having found friends I can both talk and dance with – I met a few beautiful people that I will keep with me always. I’ve been enjoying the weather, the music, the wildlife and Maputo. And I have traveled, seen palm trees, and learnt quite a lot of Portuguese.

But now, after five months, I must admit I’m kind of loosing my balance. What’s next? Was this all? Why am I so far from the people I love, and what should I do in order to reanimate my finances? Where do I apply to get some real, sincere hugs?

So, Im starting a new consultancy on Monday, because that’s what I apparently have become – a consultant, and on Tuesday I’m travelling up north. To work. Getting acces to areas I’m very interested in. Doing things I really love. Meeting people, photographing, writing stories, reporting. Contributing with my skills. Getting paid to do so. Doing it for an organization I believe in and respect.

I should be happy. What an experience! However, the general feeling of uncertainty seems to completely have killed looking forward to things. Maybe on Monday. Also, this will be pretty insignificant in terms of contributing to my budget. But still, the experience is priceless, it’s an investment in myself which is worth more than anything else. Problem is that this excuse could force me to live off my savings for another year. Not sustainable.

But then, as usual and provided that proactivity won’t fail, I’m convinced that something suddenly will pop up and solve everything I have been worrying about lately. And that’s the thought that keeps me company while sitting on the front porch of this big house that suddenly got empty. The sun has just set, the evil mosquitoes are coming out, and a small car just swooshed by, blasting Celine Dion through its open windows.

I felt like being in a drive-by scene in some kind of melancholic musical.

Anyway, back to responsibilities and obligations – oh, happy Saturday!

Caroline Bach1 Comment

Horns and birds

I’m sorry for being so absent here lately, I’ve had tons of interesting meetings and things to organize. All I can say for now is that I’m staying in Mozambique for another month to do a very fun and exciting consultancy.

To celebrate, I give you a couple of photos from when we went to Kruger National Park two weekends ago. I saw elephants, lions, zebras and hippos.. but I would like to dedicate this post to animals with different kinds of horns, and some funny and colourful birds. They don’t always get the attention they deserve.

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The battle

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I’ve been in this city, with all its music, contrasts, fresh fruit, cracked pavements, boa gente, exciting career opportunities, stark sun, dancing, pollen, colours kindness, activism and ridiculously unequal distribution of assets for five months now. I have been meaning to pack my backpack and return to Europe with my mind full of the experience a couple of times now, but Maputo and Mozambique inspires and convinces to continue here, on site. We’ll see what kind of surprises this week decides to bring, and then I might finally know. A luta continua.

Caroline Bach1 Comment

Daytrip to Catembe

Took the 0.10€, 20 minute boat to Catembe last weekend to take a look at what could be found on the other side of this thin stripe of sea. The crowded boatride and the place gave us a beautiful view of our dear Maputo, which has the skyline of a bustling and continuously growing city. There was not much else on site except something that looked like a cemetery for old boats, a vegetable market, and a lady selling the most beautiful capulana fabrics I’ve seen so far. I bought two. I also danced a little with a beautiful girl in the market, because as everywhere else – there’s always good music around here! And after crossing the water to get back to Maputo again, we went to the market next to the fortress where I bought my first capulana dress.

A daytrip to Catembe is simple and nice. Nothing extraordinary, but with friendly and welcoming people – as usual here in Mozambique. And that’s all I was looking for. That and photo opportunities.

Caroline BachLeave a comment

Sweat, bellies and joy

Last evening, I found myself in the midst of a belly shaking, sweat dripping and energy sprawling cocktail of joy and traditional music from Beira, Mozambique. We danced, sang along and laughed as Djaaka gave us a great show at Teatro Avenida here in Maputo. The girls I went with are both originally from Beira, so I had some of the lyrics translated for me as they were mostly in Sena language. All in all, it was a great show.