Formalities

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Changed my flip flops for a formal dress and my crazy busrides for an evening at the Swedish residence. Combining the embassy life with my hippie travelling lifestyle isn’t very easy but extremely rewarding. This is what I’ve always wanted to do, being able to enjoy both – I guess I’m a hippie in a suit. haha

Botswana – meeting new faces, making new friends.

I spent some time waiting on the border between Zimbabwe and Botswana, as the company I was doing the Chobe-tour was supposed to pick me up there. They didn’t. When I realized they must have forgotten about me, I hitched a ride instead – and met Moses. Moses is a tour guide for a different company that does Chobe park tours, and was just about to drive to Kasane, which is the town just next to the Bots-Zim border. We spoke about my plans in Kasane and he asked me where I had booked my lodging. which I of course hadn’t yet.

So I got:

“Well, this will sound very strange and I don’t know why I’m saying it – but you’re pretty cool – so if you want to, you can feel free to stay at my family’s place. I’ve never done this before but I can ask my mother and see if she thinks it’s okay.”

Moses dropped me off by the Kalahari tours office and as you saw, I got in time to join their tour anyway. While I was on the boat cruise, Moses texted me that his nephews were eager to meet me. He picked me up after the tour and we drove to his home.

The house was a bit outside of Kasane and Moses lives there with his mother, his sister, and his nephews. I got to meet them all except from the sister who was out travelling, I was to sleep in her room. I also got to see Moses’ room that he had decorated by painting different characters on the walls. The walls in the living room were decorated with magazine clippings. There was a room for the kitchen where are the kitchen utilities were stored but Moses said: “We Africans like to cook over fire, so we cook outside” while pointing at a fireplace next to the house. The kids had a playstation, but only one controller.

Moses went off to have a shower and I spent some time talking to 20 year old Kachere who was too shy to look me in the eyes – instead he kept looking into the tv while talking, with a huge smile on his face. “What’s the matter?” I asked.

“Nothing, sorry! It’s just that this is so strange. You are the first white person to visit our home. And the first white person I have ever spoken to. I’m so happy. This is great.”

We laughed about it. And then we spoke about Zlatan, Islam, kannibalism and Bill Gates. I took some photos. And while I went to take a shower, Kachere wrote a message in my Moleskine:

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Moses came back with his nephews who had been too afraid to come in to the livingroom. It was weird for them that I was there and they giggled away while answering my questions. The brothers, 17 and 9 years old, were clearly very attached to each other which was very nice to see despite the big age difference. They were both shy, but what I really noticed was that the younger Panashe was a very bright kid. Moses confirmed that the boy with the name that in Subia language means “where god is” was exceptionally good in school so it wasn’t only me being biased by his crystal clear English. Great!

Later, the mother came home. I jumped up to greet her and we instantly connected in the way only ladies can. We hugged, laughed, giggled, hugged again and laughed even more. Moses translated which was great – but it was not necessary. I expressed my gratitude for her letting me stay there, she was happy I was visiting and wished me all the best. We hugged again, and laughed even more. It was amazing.

Me and Moses had a talk about his childhood, family and future. I felt extremely privileged to get those quite heavy insights into his life, and thankful for his trust and honesty. We spoke about electricity, as I noticed that all the lights and electronics in the entire house were on from the moment it became dark. Moses told me that that was the custom, and that the electricity company usually walks around the townships, exchanging normal light-bulbs to energy saving ones. Electricity is very expensive. So I asked why they didn’t save electricity by turning the lights and TV off when they left a room. There was no real answer to that. They just simply don’t. Not even when going to sleep.

In the evening we went for dinner at Moses’ best friends place that was just a short walk away. The food he had cooked was great and we spoke about humanitarian aid, politics and Top Gear. It was already late as we walked back home, and some dogs followed us all the way.

In the morning Moses gave me a copy of The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency with a nice dedication, and at 5am I was on a bus again. On a bumpy & slightly chaotic ride to Namibia. Very thankful to Moses, thankful to his family, and with a refilled karma-account that I now will have to spend on a stranger.

I love friendly and helpful people, and I’m sure the world would be a prettier place if more people were like Moses and his family – assuming that they would also turn off their lights before going to sleep, of course. ;) Good night!

Where the elephants are.

On my first day in Botswana, I went on a tour to Chobe National Park with Kalahari tours. The tour consisted of a river cruise and a game drive where I got to get very close to my favourite of African animals, the elephants. I have unlimited amounts of fascination for this huge, intelligent and seemingly calm animal, and the baby elephants were just adorable. I also saw other animals in Chobe, you’ll see those below as well. Anyway – here you go, the photos:

This trip was a part of my two week “Easter trip” around Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia. So there’s more photos & stories coming up.

Black & White

As spring is starting to brighten up your realities over in Europe, Maputo is gradually becoming cold, rainy and dark. By 18:00, the sun is gone around here, and I have had to buy warm jumpers and long pants. So, enjoy the first warm winds over there because here we are moving into winter – and this otherwise so vibrant city is loosing its colour.

Why did Mamá vote?

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I bought some mini-bananas from an old lady on the beach. She sat down next to me and I bought cashew nuts for both of us. As we were eating and talking about her 13 children and her life going back and forth every day between Inhambane and Tofo, I noted her index finger had traces of ink on it.

“Did Mamá go to vote two days ago?”

I asked her the simple question why she had chosen to do so and got the following explanation:

“If you have two pineapples, one of them needs to be the father. And the father needs to take care of all the other fruits in this basket. The people have the responsibility to choose the father that will make sure that we are safe. In Inhambane we vote – and that is why I can leave my fruits here overnight and know that nobody will steal them or beat me. You can sit here and nobody will rob you, this is the land of good people and we show the leaders that our security and future is important to us. The only way to show this is by going to vote, it’s not very important who wins in the end – the important thing is that we can feel safe and continue working, and that we show that we care.”

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Mamá left to sell her pineapples and I stayed with a dog that has decided to become my friend. People have taken their surfingboards out, the sun is starting to set, and I’m very much enjoying the tranquility in Tofo.